Edore Okpako is the son of a Welsh mother and a Nigerian father. He travels to Wales to find out more about his mother's side of the family, especially his grandfather ('Taid' in Welsh), who died when he was 6 years old and who he is supposed to resemble.

William Williams, Okpako's grandfather, was a stern, highly respected figure in the community. Okpako talks to friends, family members and acquaintances, and builds up a picture of this Welsh nonconformist chapelgoer who could be authoritarian and strict but also emotional and kind-hearted.

Lady Williams, his grandfather's second wife, reveals how much the marriage between his mother and father offended and upset his grandfather. He swore that he would not attend the wedding, but at the last moment he surprised everyone by turning up. Taid was never reconciled to the marriage and, though they are infallibly polite and welcoming, it also seems the Welsh side of his family do not feel any particular connection with Okparo. Okparo reflects on his Welsh inheritance. He does look uncannily like his grandfather.